Plain white cotton petticoat
Undergarments
Chemise - the chemise is a basic shirt-like undergarment that has been in use since the Middle Ages, changing very little in shape over the years. In the 1860's the chemise consisted of a wide, rounded neckline, going from shoulder to shoulder, short sleeves, and the body of the chemise gathered or pleated into the neckline and being anywhere from hip to knee length. The material should be a white, lightweight cotton or linen. (Muslin or batiste works well)
The main purpose of the chemise was to protect the dress from body oils, so it wouldn't have to be laundered as often. It's nice to have enough chemises to have a fresh one for each day of an event.
Patterns: Free Pattern by Mrs. Clark, Past Patterns #707, Laughing Moon #100
Drawers - are two separate legs or 'tubes' gathered or pleated into a waistband that fastens with a button in the front or back. Since the legs are separate, there is a resulting 'split' where the crotch seam would have been. That's why they are also called 'split drawers'. This split allows one to conveniently make use of the 'outhouse' with out taking off layers. The leg hem usually falls about mid-calf. Like the chemise, drawers were most commonly sewn from white, lightweight cotton or linen. The chemise may be worn tucked into the waistband of the drawers, or left loose over them.
Patterns: Free Pattern by Mrs. Clark, Past Patterns #706, Laughing Moon #100
Corsets - Many people believe corsets are tight-laced torture devices - but they don't have to be! Corsets should be snug and supportive - not suffocating. If the corset is made specifically for your size and figure, there's no reason it won't be quite comfortable. Once you are wearing the petticoats, hoop, and skirt, you'll see why it's a good idea to have additional support at the waist and the back. Corsets also provide a smooth line from bust to waist, which is what you want. A modern bra will just not look right under 1860's bodices.
Most corsets lace up through eyelets in the back and consist of many different shaped, stiffened pieces that fasten in the front with a busk. (two separate pieces of metal or wood that snap together with studs and loops) Corsets back in the day would have been stiffened with whale boning, but since that is not an option today - a good alternative is 1/4" steel boning. If your figure doesn't need as much support, you could also use thin cotton cording. It's best to avoid plastic boning found at fabric stores, as it will not hold it's shape and can distort the fit of the garment. Another option for a working class outfit would be a stay. The best material for all types of corsets is cotton in a strong weave - coutil, drill, twill, or sateen.
You can get cotton drill and cotton sateen at most Joann fabric stores.
There are many different variations and patterns out there - so take your time in deciding what will be best for you.
Patterns: Laughing Moon #100, Past Patterns #708, #703, #705, #720
Supplies: Corset Making, Farthingales
Custom corsets: Bonny Blue Historical Clothing, Originals-by-Kay
Petticoats - A couple of plain white petticoats are an often overlooked addition to a lady's authentic wardrobe. Again, white cotton muslin works well for most petticoats. They should be gathered into a waistband fastened with a button. It's best to begin with a small 'modesty' petticoat that is somewhere from knee to mid-calf length to be worn over the chemise, drawers & corset. (this is a good 'safety measure' especially when one is wearing a hoopskirt) Then, you'll want a couple of other fuller petticoats to wear under your non-hoop dresses, or to wear over your hoop.
Additional types of petticoats are discussed in Extras.
Patterns: Free Pattern by Mrs. Clark, Past Patterns #706
Hoops - also called crinolines. You'll see lots of cheap 'bridal' hoops for sale, and that's usually what new reenactors end up purchasing. However, I would advise that you consider some other options. Cage crinolines are a higher-quality, more authentic alternative to the usual bridal hoop. Even though they are a more expensive investment, it is well worth the extra cost. Also keep in mind this does not have to be one of your first purchases. (see First Dress)
A cage crinoline consists of horizontal, circular hoops of steel and buckram that are suspended on vertical tapes. You'll want to wear at least one full-gathered petticoat over the hoop to cover and soften the lines of the metal hoops underneath your skirt. I find that cage crinolines are much lighter-weight than my former 'sutler hoop', even with two additional petticoats. The movement is also much more graceful. Note: I've also never had any 'mishaps' with my cage crinoline - my other drawstring-waist hoop fell right off of me at a dance - and generally caused trouble ever time I wore it! So, all in all, I would definitely recommend you go for the cage crinoline option right from the get-go, and save yourself a lot of heartache! And, no, I don't sell cage crinolines - I'm just trying to help out new reenactors with what I wish I had known! Below are the resources I have found for quality crinolines -
Patterns & Kits: Truly Victorian 103 & 141, Wooded Hamlet Caged Crinoline Kit, Originals-by-Kay Cage Hoop Kit
Supplies: Corset Making, Truly Victorian, Farthingales
Ready Made: Originals-by-Kay Cage Hoops, Wooded Hamlet Custom Caged Crinoline, Dresden Drygoods
Chemise and Corset
Split Drawers