First Dress
When deciding what you want in your first dress - you will want to consider what you will be doing while you are wearing the dress. For instance - a satin ball gown won't be practical if you are planning to camp at the event. It's good to consider all the options and do some research before purchasing or making your dress. (see What Not to Wear)
You want your first dress to be comfortable, practical, period, and pretty! Many ladies may have time to make only one outfit before their first event, so ideally their first dress needs to be something that they can comfortably and safely wear when performing camp duties, such as cooking over the fire. But it will also need to be something that can be dressed up with accessories for special occasions such as dances or teas. It is possible to achieve both looks and purposes within one dress, by choosing the right combination of fabric and style.
(There are obviously many, many options for dresses, the following is simply my personal recommendations for new reenactors who will be camping at events)
Fabric: The yardage of fabric you need to buy for a dress can vary greatly, depending on the pattern, and your own height and size. (anywhere from 5 to 10 yards) I usually purchase about 7 yards of fabric. It's enough to give me some extra in case of cutting mistakes without being extravagant.
Cotton: Cotton prints have the advantage of being affordable, machine washable, and easy to find at any local fabric shop. (Joann's, Hancocks, Walmart) There are also some really nice shops online for reproduction cotton prints, though they can be a little pricier. Two good ones are Reproduction Fabrics and Quilt Book. If the reproduction prints don't fit into your budget, then it is a good idea to at least look through them and get and idea of designs for the time period, so you will have better luck finding an appropriate fabric when you go shopping. You may find usually find cottons from $2 to $10 dollars a yard.
When choosing fabric, look for ones that have a flowing, draping hand, and feel soft and smooth. If it feels rough and cheap - then it won't wash well.
One disadvantage of cotton is that the print does begin to fade after several washings. Be sure to avoid solid colored cotton for a dress, because when washed it will fade unevenly. Cotton prints also won't be appropriate for many styles of dresses.
Wool: Wool is a very versatile fabric, being appropriate for many types of outfits, from a simple wash dress to a high fashion ensemble. The down side is that the right type of wool can be hard to find locally, and it also won't be the best choice for the heat of summer, though it will be comfortable for most seasons of the year.
When shopping for wool, you will want to look for the type labeled 'tropical'. The fabric itself will not be much thicker than a cotton print, and it will also have a smooth feel. Many times one side will have a twill, or diagonal weave, and the other side will be plain. Sometimes you will also find this type of wool labeled 'gabardine'. Expect to find mostly solid colors and occasionally plaids. Also look closely to make sure the wool is not a 'blend' which means it is part synthetic. You will find wool from about $7 to $20 dollars a yards. A good place to look is Fashion Fabrics Club. It's always a good idea to order a swatch of the wool you want before buying, to make sure it is lightweight enough for a dress.
Fabric to avoid: Run away from all fabrics with synthetic content - such as polyester, lycra, and nylon. These are not only un-period, but they also pose a serious hazard around campfires or fireplaces. (they will melt when hot!)
Style: A typical mistake many who are new to historical sewing make is to choose the wrong combination of fabric and style of dress. For more on this see What Not to Wear.
Bodice: If your fabric is a cotton print - I would recommend Past Patterns #701. This is a gathered bodice, which would be a common style for a cotton dress.
If wool is your fabric, the above mentioned gathered bodice would be appropriate, or it you wanted a more tailored look, the #702 darted bodice would also be a nice option. Another fitted bodice pattern is LM #111.
Sleeves: The Past Patterns #701 pattern also includes two sleeve options - a coat sleeve and a bishop sleeve, both of which would be good options for a multi-purpose dress. (Save the pagoda sleeves from #702 for a dressier ensemble)
The Laughing Moon #111 includes coat sleeves as well. (View A)
If you are a younger lady (under 18) you may also choose short sleeves.
Skirt: The aforementioned Laughing Moon #111 has a skirt pattern included, and Past Patterns #700 is a good pattern as well. Mrs. Clark's free Basic Petticoat instructions can also be used to make a skirt.
I would recommend making your skirt short enough that it does not constrict your walking, and does not cause you to trip. This might be an inch or two longer than the petticoats.
I usually join the finished bodice and skirt together by hand sewing. I find this to be much more convenient than using hooks and eyes at the waistline.
Supplies: Fitted bodices may call for boning in the darts - this can be ordered from Corset Making. The 1/4" white steel bones work well.
Good options for buttons include glass, china, and bone. The best resource I have found for buttons such as these is Ebay, (or antique shops) where you can find large lots of antique buttons very inexpensively.
The patterns may call for hooks and eyes for the bodice closure. I like to use the #1 size of wire hooks and eyes. These can be purchased at any fabric store.
